On the 21st of January a Grey Phalarope was found
on Leanyer Sewage Treatment Plant in Darwin and the twitch was on, birders from
all over Australia made plans. On the 22nd I got on the internet and
arranged a birding pass for entry to the treatment plant.
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Male Bar-shouldered Dove giving courtship display |
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Northern race of Galah, kuhli |
On the 23rd the news even hit the local Darwin
ABC radio station but this is the wet season and, also on the 23rd,
heavy rain caused flooding across Darwin washing out roads and rail lines and
closing the sewage plant. Two things had happened at the plant, first the dirt
tracks had become impassable and second, a crocodile had swum in and been seen
in one of the ponds. The twich was on hold! This was a birding nightmare! A
class one vagrant was in town and birders couldn't get in to see it. The twitch
subsided with an audible sigh of dismay!
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Python in Botanical Gardens. A beautiful specimen that we eventually realised was made of plastic (smile) |
Not to be daunted, when the rain eased off a few intrepid souls walked into the
boundary fence on the 26th and 27th and found that
distant scope views of the bird could be obtained from outside the fence, and the
twitch was on again, with an audible sigh of relief.
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Cattle Egrets with very tame Buffalo used for milk and cheese production |
When people walked in to the fence on the 6th
February they found not only the Grey Phalarope was on the pond, but there were
7 Red-necked Phalarope with it. This was totally unheard of. Red-necked
Phalarope usually occur in Australia in ones and twos as rare vagrants, rarely in a
flock, and the Grey was only Australia's sixth record. But still it rained and
still the inside of the plant remained off limits.
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Pied Herons |
Procrastination and other plans got in the way and the
earliest I could get to Darwin was Saturday 15th Feb, 3 weeks after
the bird was found and, as it turned out, 5 days after all the phalaropes
decided to fly north. I had dipped!
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Intermediate Egret in breeding plumage |
As I hadn't birded around Darwin before I could still
possibly find some new birds; Rufous Owl, Hooded Parrot, Yellow-rumped
Mannikin, Partridge Pigeon and Chestnut-backed Buttonquail, so I stuck to my
plan and boarded the Saturday flight to Darwin.
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Little Egret in breeding plumage |
I met up with friends in Darwin and we headed out to look
for birds. Even though we knew all the phalaropes had gone we decided to head
for Leanyer Sewage Treatment Plant just because sewage treatment plants are
"5 star" tourist spots, if you are a birder. We also secretly wanted
to make sure for ourselves that the phalarope had left, even though some of the
best birders in town had told us they had. I mean, what if they had come back
sometime in the last hour! They hadn't. Sigh.
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Forest Kingfisher |
Next stop was Knuckey's Lagoon to look for finches and
cisticolas. There were no cisticolas but there was a small group of
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin and in the middle of the group – one Yellow-rumped
Mannikin, my first tick for the trip.
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Brush Cuckoo |
From Knuckey's Lagoon it was off to the Botanical Gardens to
track down a Rufous Owl that lives there, most of the time but not on that day.
Bother. Howard Springs was another option for the owl so off we went arriving
late in the day when Rufous Owls are meant to fly out of the wet, mosquito and
leach-infested forest. None did so we walked in, and didn't see one. Next
evening we repeated the process, again without luck. A third visit later that
night worked though and just as we pulled up a Rufous Owl did a long, slow
fly-past, right in front of the car, and we all had an extended look at this
special bird. Tick two.
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Comb-crested Jacana showing off its long toes |
Sunday
morning saw us heading for the Palmerston poo-ponds, my second poo-ponds for
the trip, where 2 Red-necked Phalarope had been reported. The ponds were closed
but by peering through the trees, we could see glimpses of water but little
else.
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Merton's Water monitor. This one was just over a metre long |
Out at Fogg
Dam that afternoon herons and egrets fed on the spillway and captive water
buffalo allowed Cattle Egrets to walk on their backs. The highlights though
were probably the sheer number of herons and egrets, all in breeding plumage,
the Bustard that flew over the road and the Slaty-grey Snake that slid very
fast across in front of us as we headed home.
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Slaty-grey Snake, about 2 metres long |
On Tuesday
morning I drove down to Pine Creek, about 220 km south of Darwin, for my next
group of wanted birds. I booked into the Lazy Lizard cabins behind the pub after
a quick look at the football ground for the Hooded Parrots that are meant to
hang out there. There was no sign of them so I figured I would need to go back
late in the afternoon or early the next morning.
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Great Bowerbird at power in garden of the Lazy Lizard Hotel |
My next act
was to check out all the other local birding spots that had been recommended to
me. The local poo-ponds were small and only had 4 Wandering Whistling Ducks, 2
Rajah Shelducks and a lone Black-fronted Dotterel. They did, however, hold the
distinction of being the third poo-ponds I had explored on the trip, a new
record for the number of poo-ponds visited on one trip.
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Wandering Whistling Duck at Leanyer Sewage Treatment Ponds |
From the
poo-ponds I drove down to Copperfield Dam. This is a beautiful location tucked
in over a rise of rocky hills. The day was overcast but the trees still shone vibrant
green against the red soil and long grass. The birds were scarce but a couple
of fun experiences were a shimmering blue butterfly, a Blue Argus, a
Chestnut-backed Button Quail that scurried into the grass beside the track
(tick three) and a Collared Lorikeet that sat on a dead branch and screamed at me.
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Copperfield Dam |
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I think these signs are to scale. Dogs in the Northern Territory are as big as donkeys and could easily be as tall as a tent (smile) |
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Male Blue Argus butterfly |
Having
checked out all the recommended spots I drove back into town and picked up
sandwiches and a drink for lunch and headed back to the football oval to wait
for the parrots. To my delight a small group, apparently all female and
juvenile, flew in and allowed a couple of id photos. Tick four was in the bag.
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Blue-faced Honeyeater |
After lunch
I returned to Copperfield Dam and spent until 1600 looking for Partridge Pigeons. Then at 1615 a massive storm hit and the rain bucketed. Birding for the day was over.
I got back to the cabin just as the lightning hit and blacked out the entire
town so I sat in the dark writing up the day's adventures on my laptop and
wondered what sort of cold meal the Lazy Lizard pub might be able to serve me
for dinner.
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Crimson Finch |
I wandered
into the outdoor bar/dining area and all was dark except for a few candles on
the bar. I asked about dinner and there was some discussion about what they
could cook in the dark and I was surprised to hear that Spaghetti Carbonara was
a possibility so I said, yes please, and bought a glass of chardonnay to go
with it. What arrived was the best carbonara I have had in many years. As I ate
it I saw a sign saying homemade ice cream. What a perfect way to finish the
day. So my recommendation is, if you are in Pine Creek looking for birds, eat
at the Lazy Lizard. It is a special treat, made even better if the meal is
served by candlelight in the middle of an electrical storm (smile).
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Torresian Crows with adult to left and juvenile at bottom |
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Helmeted Guineafowl seen on roadside near Pine Creek. Introduced with some feral populations self sustaining. |
My alarm went off at 0600 and by 0630 I was back down at
Copperfield Dam and started driving up and down the access road. Copperfield
Dam is a beautiful spot and I found many birds but they were all very shy.
Collared and Varied Lorikeets flew through but not many landed and the Silver-crowned
Friarbirds kept well within the foliage, as did the Northern Rosellas. After 5
or 6 return trips on the access road I stopped because I heard some honeyeaters
calling down the gully toward the dam. As I got out of the car I looked back up
the road and there, walking slowly and sedately down the road as only a pigeon
can, was my last target species for the weekend, a Partridge Pigeon – tick
five. It has been a long time since I have had a 5 tick trip. It will be my
last time in Australia too as there is now nowhere I can go and get more than 3
ticks in a single location. In total I saw 102 species for the four days.
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Male Hooded Parrot at Copperfield Dam |
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Pair of Hooded Parrot |
It was now
midday and I had to start heading back toward Darwin. Just in case though, before
I left I
did the rounds of all the roads that were still passable after the night's
rain. First stop was the local tip, always a good spot for birds but there was
a guy going through the rubbish looking for refundable bottles and cans so the
birds had all left. Next stop was the road behind the railway station to look
for finches, again with no luck. A final stop at the football ground had
nothing new to see and I was on my way. I had dipped on seeing the vagrant Grey
Phalarope but it was still four days of brilliant birding.
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Red-collared Lorikeet |
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Partridge Pigeaon, race smithii |
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Radjah Shelduck |
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Grassy woodlands around Pine Creek |
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Grey Kangaroo at Pine Creek |
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Bar-shouldered Dove |
All text & images © Jenny Spry